Bogota Review

I suspect that the readers of my posts on lock-picking fall into two broad camps. The first are those interested in lock sport, and that, like me, are relatively new to the field. The second are those who are not particularly interested in lock sport as a hobby but wish to add a new capability to their repertoire of survival, self-reliance and preparedness skills.
 

To both groups I give the same initial advice: If you only ever buy or carry one set of lock picks, it should be the Bogotas!

As I have mentioned elsewhere, the Bogotas are the invention of a lock sportsman called “Raimondo”. You may see similar picks under other names, which is often an indication that the maker is trying to avoid copyright and IP.
 

There are number of options when it comes to Bogotas. In addition to stainless steel they can also be found in non-magnetic titanium. Interestingly, some of my steel Bogatas are strongly magnetic, others much less so. More of that later. “Mini-Bogatas” have a shorter handle. The actual pick part is the same, don’t think these are better suited for smaller locks. Mini-Bogatas can be found in either stainless steel or titanium. Two-hump and four-hump versions of Bogotas can also be found. I have no personal experience of these, so this article will be about the more commonly found triple and single hump set.
 

Another option you will encounter is “standard” or “euro-twist”. This reflects that in the US cylinder locks are usually mounted with the pins uppermost, while in Europe they can be encountered with the pins down. A “euro-twist” Bogata has the humps pointing in the same direction as the handle curves. Even if you are in the USA, I suggest you buy “euro-twist” if you can get them. If you are using the other pick as a turning tool this lets them curve away from each other, giving you a bit more room. There are also flat “no-twist” Bogotas.
 

Most paired sets of Bogota picks have handles designed to act as a turning tool for the other. And they work very well for this too! I often reach for them before other tools when using other picks. It is possible these handles might serve as shims. Regrettably I do not have any handcuffs to experiment with.
 

The single hump version can serve as a half-diamond or probably as a hook too. This form is sometimes called a “knuckle” or “p-nuckle”. I’ve not made much use of the single-hump as a hook but have SPP picked locks using it as a half-diamond. The single hump is also good as a skeleton key for small warded locks and can be used to pick dimple locks. 

I have seldom actually needed to use the single hump for SPP since the triple hump rake is the most consistently performing pick I have used. With the right action some locks pop in seconds. I have some rakes that open certain locks faster than the Bogotas, but if these do not work the Bogotas usually do the job. I use my Bogota rake more than any other pick I have. My other rakes are mainly for locks that are too small for the Bogota or that I know open faster with another design.
 

The inventor of the Bogota recommends that the rake be used with a jittery action, “like you have had too much coffee”. The Bogota rake actually lends itself to a variety. I generally start with a see-saw rocking action that becomes a scrubbing action if the lock does not yield. I guess that might qualify as a jiggling or jittery action. You can also use the Bogota with a zipping action. I have even opened some locks with the rake inverted so that the bumps rather than the peaks contact the pins.
  

I now have a couple of variants of Bogotas. In addition to my original Dangerfield pair I have a more conventionally handled version from the Dangerfield Serenity set. I also have some pairs from Mad Bob. The Dangerfields have taken up residence in my lock sport kit, while the Mad Bobs I intend to place in an emergency kit.
 

The Dangerfield pair are not as flexible as some picks out there, which is a good thing since when you are starting out you may get some locks to open with a lateral jiggle. These Bogatas seem unlikely to bend or break with such applications, although as your finesse develops you tend to drop this technique.

The Bogota from the Serenity kit seems more flexible than the other Dangerfields. According to UK Bump Keys all three are 0.022" (0.558mm). Initially I found the Serenity Bogata easier to use in the narrow twisty keyway of an SKS lock. This has been cured with practice and I now have no trouble using the stiffer Dangerfields in this lock. I actually prefer these Bogotas over the others I currently have.

The Mad Bob Bogotas are offered in both “standard” and “euro-twist” configurations and in both 0.6mm and 0.8mm thicknesss. Mine are 0.6mm euro-twist. They seem a little more flexible than the paired Dangerfield. That is not a bad thing for narrow keyways once you have learnt to be gentle with your picks. Interestingly, the steel used on the Mad Bobs does not seem to be magnetic, while that on the Dangerfields is. I’d not try taking them through a metal detector, but this might be significant if you plan to magnetize your picks to make an emergency compass.

I have seen it said that Mad Bob picks need additional sanding. The picks I have have no detectable rough spots and the finish seems adequate.

The Mad Bobs are somewhat cheaper than the Dangefields, although this is somewhat offset by the shipping and handling charge the former has. Mad Bob also failed to notify me when the picks were back in stock.

I discovered something interesting while trying out my newly arrived Mad Bobs. My stubborn little Abus padlock refused to open. Usually it opens with a Bogota, although the Octo rake is quicker. The problem seemed to be with which turning tool I used. Using another Mad Bob Bogata pick as a turner seemed to leave insufficient room inside the small keyway for the rake to rock. When using the Dangerfield and Serenity Bogotas stored in my lock sport kit I must have used the “L” tool in the kit.

My attempted solution was to cut the handle down to about half an inch (12-13mm). I achieved this by cutting a grove with the cut-off disc of a Dremel then bending it until it sheared. Use something like the stone of a Dremel to re-shape the end then finish with a needle file and abrasive paper. This increases the pick’s capability as a turning tool but makes it more compact, intermediate between the unmodified pick and the often much more expensive 2” Mini-Bogota. Bending the handle to a right angle decreases the overall length further and may make them easier to carry in certain locations.

 

Despite these efforts, the Abus won’t open unless certain turing tools are used on it. Specifically the Dangerfield Bogotas and Sohos or the Serenity L-tool. The Mad Bobs are either thinner or more flexible. They work fine on other locks I have tried, but the Abus remains a baffling exception.

This image shows some “batarang” rakes that at first glance may appear to be Bogotas. These are from one of my Chinese pick kits, which seem to have been “inspired” by an American brand called “Majestic”. Note that some of them lack the undercutting of some peaks -a feature that strengthens the Bogotas. Also note that the “wavelength” of the peaks is less. They do work, I have opened locks with them, but they are not as good as Bogotas. Incidently, these have a number of burrs that could be sanded off, but this is likely to remove the nasty black finish that shows up the brass. I have not experience of genuine Majestic picks but expect they are better finished.

The mirror finish of other picks helps them move around inside a lock and does not show up brass marks like some other pick finishes. 

An honourable mention goes to this rake, which is effectively a Bogota without the innovation of the undercuts. The original Bogotas were made from the steel blades from a streetsweeper, illustrating that these are a relatively simple construction project for those with hand tools, material and patience.

A pair of Bogotas constitutes a compact but very capable lock-picking capability. In other posts I have shown how a pair can be carried using the spring from a cheap pen. The safety pin lets the pair be carried where they are concealed or most convenient. An alternate method uses a few inches of gutted paracord. A safety pin may be added with a needle and thread.

If you are new to lock-picking the Bogotas are great for building your confidence and teaching finesse.

Given their performance, quality and versatility a pair of Bogotas are great value for money and worth adding to you tool kit, survival kit etc. Newbie or veteran, you should give them a try!

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Two Soaps, One Cup.

I will admit that I can be a bit frugal at times. In an age where we waste far too much and fail to appreciate what we have, I do not regard that as a bad thing.

This is not me!

The other day I had some soap reach the end of its useful life. Both bars had begun to produce less laver and broke into shards if you tried to use them. Annoyingly, there seemed to be quite a bit of soap left. Trying to squeeze the old pieces into the new bar of soap never seems to work. Even if they are the same type of soap they tend to break off and be lost.

Decades ago newspapers used to have adverts for soap moulds that supposedly let you compress multiple old bars of soap into a new bar. Surely such a thing must be available on the internet now? Turns out that you could buy such a thing but it is now unavailable. There are youtube videos on how to make such a thing out of wood. There are also many videos showing you how to melt soap in a saucepan and place it in silicone moulds.

Some further searching and applied logic resulted in something less involved and more practical. Here is what you do:

Find a microwavable plastic cup. I use one of the little Tupperware tubs that some takeaways give you sauce in. Place your shards of old soap in the cup, having removed any labels the soap may still have.

Take a metal teaspoon and carve a trough in one side of your new bar of soap. Put the soap you have carved out in the cup with the old soap.

It does not matter if the soap in the cup is wet, but be sparing if adding extra water. Spend a couple of seconds crumbling the soap so none hangs over the edge of the cup.

Place the cup of soap in a microwave and give it 30 seconds. Keep an eye on the soap and stop the microwave as necessary. I put a little too much water in with the soap and it frothed over the side of the cup. The turntable was due for a clean anyway.

If the soap is not sufficiently softened/ melted, give it additional bursts of about 10 seconds until it is how you want it.

 Take the teaspoon and use it to pack the soft soap into the trough on the new bar of soap. I ended up taking a foil wrapper and encircling the soap with it to pack it down. The wrapper was used food packaging so additional points for recycling and repurposing!

Let the soap cool before you attempt to remove the wrapper if you used one. Very little soap should adhere to the wrapper if you have waited long enough.

I was a little concerned I had used too much water so I put the bar in the freezer for a few hours in the hope that some of the excess would crystalize out.

I tried the bigger bar of soap today. Works perfectly. The little plastic tub now lives in the bathroom, ready to collect future shards of soap. Currently my bar of soap rests on top of it to dry. When it gets smaller I will place it on a repurposed shampoo bottle cap.

Discovering soap can be melted in a microwave offers some interesting potential. Soaps can be made with essential oils, fruit zest, oatmeal or various other additives. I seem to recall I once saw coffee soap advertised. There is always a little bit of coffee and grounds left in the pot. It is mince pie season so some of those foil cups may get repurposed as moulds.

If you have enjoyed this article or it has been helpful to you please feel free to show your appreciation. Thank you.
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Hook Ladders.

Yesterday I was reading a little more about hook ladders. The hook ladder is a masterful piece of lateral thinking: You cannot carry a ladder long enough to reach where you want to go? Carry enough to reach a ledge or balcony. Climb up to that and then use the ladder to reach higher. A typical ladder would be 4 metres/ 13 ft long.

 

Here are some videos of hook ladders in action, and even being used for races.

It just so happened that the same day I came across this image. If provision is made to carry or retrieve the painter’s pole such a device can be used to “climb in instalments” in the same fashion as the hook ladder is used.

The “frost knot” is simply an overhand knot. Here is a video on it, and one on making an etrier.

Below are some images of the ninja kumade, effectively a folding hook ladder. 

 

         If you have enjoyed this article or it has been helpful to you please feel free to show your appreciation. Thank you.
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Survival Gear: Part Two.

Sleeping Through the Apocalypse.

In part one of this discourse I fielded the idea that your survival kit should start with a suitable outfit of boots and clothing, including hats, bandannas and gloves.

I’ll continue with a few further thoughts on “neckwear”. While useful, most modern bandannas are a little on the small side. Kephart advocated a silk neckerchief either 27" or 36" square. In “Jack Knife Cookery” James Austin Wilder stated that a scout’s neck cloth be “two cubits”. This page suggests a 30-40" square.

While researching today’s post I came across the “pashmina” shawl below. We tend to think of such garments as something for the ladies, but the potential of such a thing for any outdoorsperson should be obvious. At 190 x 70 cm it is effectively a mini-blanket.

To the ensemble we discussed yesterday, I will suggest a further addition, which is that of eyewear.

If you need glasses you may have them already with you when you reach your emergency kit. Ideally your kit should include a spare pair, but this is often not financially practical for many of us. If you are blessed with perfect vision, your kit should include a pair of sunglasses. Not only do these protect from sun and snow glare but also from thorns and branches in the woods. If you need prescription glasses they should be selected from styles that cover as much of the eye area as possible. Retainer bands, to stop you losing your glasses during rough travel are worth acquiring.

Protective goggles are another prudent addition to your kit, particularly if you operate somewhere where dust storms or harsh wind are common. 

While a lower priority than the other clothing items we have discussed, gaiters are a useful addition to any cross-country kit.

In part one of this discussion I stated that if your cold weather gear had you perfectly comfortable when you were standing around, you were wearing too much for hiking. Put another way, you should be slightly chilly when standing around in your marching order. So what happens when you finally make camp and are less active? Obviously, you have to wear more. This is time to break out the blanket!

Blankets are ideal for sitting around camp, standing watch or waiting in a stand. In previous blog posts we have looked at various ways to use blankets as garments. It may be prudent to pack a few large safety pins, blanket pins or cloak pins in with your blanket.

Why a blanket, you may ask? Modern people use sleeping bags! You can wrap a sleeping bag around yourself too! Indeed you can. Typically good blankets (or poncho-liners) cost less than good sleeping bags. If, like so many of us, you are on a limited budget then the purchase of a good blanket for your emergency supplies is a better investment than that of a cheap sleeping bag. You can add a quality sleeping bag when you have the money, and use your blanket with it if you wish. Another consideration is that sleeping bags should be stored unrolled, while a blanket is quite happy rolled up with your other emergency items. Available now are blankets (“throws”) made of synthetic fleece. I've not actually used these in the field but often use one at home. For field use they may not have the wind resistance for use as outer wear. That can be solved by the addition of a more wind resistant outer layer such as a rain-poncho.

Around the same time that you buy yourself a good blanket get yourself a rain-poncho, small tarp, basha-sheet or all-weather blanket. Whatever you choose should be capable of serving as both a rain-garment and a shelter cloth. Add usefully long lengths of paracord to each eyelet and roll or bundle them up so they are out of the way until needed. See my knot book for some ways to do this. Attaching such cords is better done at home in the warm rather than when out in the field when cold, wet and tired. You should be able to wear your poncho/ sheet over your blanket if necessary. At night, you rig it as a roof while you curl up in your blanket.

There are many items that you can add to your emergency kit to make your sleep more comfortable, and you probably will. The rain-poncho and blanket are the very basic must-haves that will keep you warm and dry whether awake or sleeping. After suitable clothing, they are the first items your kit should acquire. A foam or foil kip mat might be the next item to acquire. These are relatively inexpensive and can greatly increase your comfort at night, protecting from both the damp and chill of the ground. In certain environments, where trees and roofs are scarce, some tent pole sections and pegs may be an early purchase.

Human nature being what it is, your possession of basic essentials such as a blanket and poncho may make you a target for theft and attack. Next on the shopping list is a knife. The knife is not just a defensive weapon, it is a tool that can be used to manufacture shelter, build fires, prepare food and, if necessary, create better defensive weapons. Many bug-out bags include expensive folding knives. Your primary knife in your emergency kit should be fixed blade and capable of the heavy work that I have described. My first choice is my 10” sirupate kukri, accompanied by a puuko and brog. If you are on a budget, a machete is far from the worst choice you could make. Your kit should include some means to resharpen your blade. You will also need a belt or similar so this vital tool can be worn on your person. For an in-depth discussion on survival blades and how to use them see my book Survival Weapons.

Water is the next consideration. Your kit should include a couple of litres of bottled water, more if you are in an arid region. Large plastic soda bottles are very useful for water storage. Wash them out, fill with clean tap water and add two drops of bleach per litre. You sometimes encounter nonsense about storing water. As a qualified microbiologist I can tell you water will not “go off” if it has been properly sterilized.

Water is heavy and bulky so you can only carry a limited amount. Your kit should also include a supply of water purification tablets. These are valuable so carry them in the cargo pocket of your trousers.

Before using other purification methods filter water to remove gross contaminants. This is another job for a bandanna!

In an emergency situation, it is prudent to carry at least a litre of water on your person whenever practical. This is in addition to the water supply in your pack. This doesn’t have to be an army water bottle, although their shape is well suited to this task so get one if the price is reasonable. “Civilian” plastic water bottles and bladders can be used instead, so long as they are convenient to carry. Some military bottle pouches can be rather over-engineered. Modern military pouches are designed to fit on the belt and assume a load carrying system is worn. A shoulder strap may be a more convenient arrangement. Consider a strap or paracord carrier for your bottle or a mesh or cloth bag.

In a previous blog I described how to create a simple, effective fire kit. Add this to a cargo pocket of your emergency trousers. You are far less likely to remove your trousers than a jacket or shirt. Thus some of your most useful items are carried in your trouser pockets rather than your pack, jacket or belt order. You should also have a lighter as a component of your everyday carry. There should be an emergency disposable lighter in each of your outdoor coats. Throw a few spares into your emergency bag.

Your emergency kit contains two medical kits. The more extensive one is carried in your pack, preferably where it can be quickly located. See my article here for some suggestions on contents. You also should have a pocket kit that lives in a trouser cargo pocket. This is just a small selection of plasters, aspirin and alcohol wipes.

Your cargo pockets should also include at least one foil blanket. These cost a pittance but can save lives. It is worth stocking up on a few spares.

If you need particular medication, you should have it located close to where your emergency kit is stored. Ideally you would have it packed in the kit, but stocking up on prescription items is often not practical, and you may need to make sure items are relatively fresh.

It is a good idea to store a checklist with your emergency kit. This lists items that you may need that are not stored with the main kit and can be useful when you are flustered or in a hurry.

The knife or knives in your emergency kit are supplemented by something such as a Swiss army knife (SAK). Mine is part of my everyday carry and is accompanied a mini-leatherman Squirt. Together these weigh 6¼ oz/ 178 gm so are several ounces lighter than many single full size multi-tools. The SAK includes a fine screwdriver that stores in the corkscrew. This can be used to repair spectacles and sunglasses.

That concludes the second part of this discussion. Third part to follow soon.

         If you have enjoyed this article or it has been helpful to you please feel free to show your appreciation. Thank you.
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